• Reviews

Connecticut Magazine

Good things still come in small packages

March 2006

In this case, think a cozy little white Cape house with owner Robert D'Agostino's murals and family photos on the walls, a restaurant with just enough room for four dozen diners at once and brick-oven pizzas that (in the dining room, at least) never exceed 12 inches in diameter. Pizza Cucina excels in tiny details, such as the way a crispy-thin yet chewy crust, topped with a layer of "original fresh tomato style" sauce (with crushed California plum tomatoes) and a dose of Gorgonzola breathe spunky new life into a classic three-cheese pie. Big things include the clams atop one of the restaurant's simplest white pizzas (all seafood comes fresh from Grossman's in Groton) and what we suspect is the calorie count on the Meat Lover's pie-hamburger, sausage, pepperoni and bacon, oh my. No matter. We'll return for the Sausage Cacciatore and Puttanesca pizzas, just because we know their taste will be as mellifluous as their names.